Fabric & Fashion Terms Fabric & Fashion Terms
A-line gown - Form fitting bodices that flare out from the waistline to a full skirt. These gowns have a seamless waist.

A-line skirt/fit and flare skirt - A skirt that is fitted at the waist and flares out in an A-line or tulip shape at the hem.

back drape - A length of material attached either at the shoulder or the waist that flows over the back to floor length. In some cases it is removable.

back yoke - A fitted or shaped piece at the top of a skirt or at the shoulder of various garments.

ball gown - Characterized by a very full skirt that begins at the waist and continues to a formal length. The skirt waist is seamed and can be of various styles.

ballerina neckline - This is a low neckline that usually occurs with strapless or spaghetti strapped dresses.

bandeau/tube top - A band-shaped covering for the breasts. Often known as a boob tube.

Basque waist/V-waist - This dropped waist starts at or just below the natural waistline, and dips in the center creating a "V" shape.

bateau neck/boat neck - A high, wide, straight neckline that runs straight across the front and back, meeting at the shoulders; the same depth in the front and back.

bias cut - Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric. Used to create garments that follow the body curves closely.

bias binding - a narrow strip of fabric cut on the bias, used for binding edges, especially curved. Can be ready made or made by hand.

blazer - A long-sleeved sports jacket with lapels.

bolero jacket - A loose, barely waist-length jacket open at the front.

boot-cut - Cut below the belly button and slightly flares from the knee to the ankle.

box pleat - Two back to back outward facing pleats that have a box-like appearance. The 'spare' fabric can eithe rbe brought to the front or to the back. On shirts, box pleats are positioned in the center back at the bottom of the yoke to allow ease of movement in the shoulders and arms.

boy-leg - Shorts, undergarments, or swimwear that have a close fitting leg that reaches part way down the thigh.

broomstick - A skirt or dress that is characterized by numerous pleats and crinkled material.

camisole - A short, sleeveless garment for women. Some camisoles are fitted with internal bras.

cap sleeve - A small, short sleeve which sits on the shoulder, either forming a stiff cap or falling on to the arm to provide minimal coverage.

capri pants - Fairly straight-cut pants, tapered to the mid-calf.

cardigan jacket - A usually collarless sweater or jacket that opens the full length of the center front.

cargo - Characterized by sporting a large pocket usually with a flap and a pleat.

carpenter trousers/shorts - Five-pocket trousers characterized by a "hammer holder," a stretch of material connecting the outside seam to the back pocket.

cathedral train - (Also known as a monarch train); a cascading train extending six to eight feet behind the gown, for the most formal weddings.

chapel train - The most popular of all train lengths, it flows from three to four feet behind the gown.

chemise - Simply a straight unbelted dress with varying sleeves and length. Usually used nowadays for nightwear.

column skirt/straight skirt - Also referred to as a pencil skirt, this skirt is a straight line with no flare or fullness at the hem or waistline.

concealed popper/velcro/button placket - A slit in a garment where fasteners are hidden. Concealed zips are a special kind of zip, which are much less obvious when sewn into a garment.

corset top/boned bodice - A form-fitting, usually strapless bodice with boning and either laces or snap closures, styled in the fashion of the ladies undergarment of the same name.

cowl neck - A neckline featuring a piece of material attached to a garment at the neck, which may be used as a hood or draped loosely in a swag from shoulder to shoulder at the front neckline or back.

crew neck - A round neck with ribbed banding that fits close to the base of the neck. Seen on t-shirts and sweatshirts.

cropped top/jacket - Hem is cut just above the waist.

diamond neck - A diamond-shaped cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.

dolman sleeve - Cut as an extension of the bodice, the dolman sleeve is designed without a socket for the shoulder, creating a deep, wide armhole that reaches from the waist to a narrowed wrist. Also called a batwing sleeve.

double-breasted - Having one-half of the front lapped over the other, and usually has a double row of buttons and a single row of buttonholes.

double-tee top - A layered look with one T-shirt over another.

draped bodice - An extra piece of material is draped over the bustline.

dropped waist/low waist - A waistline that is sewn below the body's natural waistline.

dropped shoulders - Characterised by the shoulder/sleeve seam falling off the shoulder.

empire bodice - A bodice that ends just below the bust, sometimes low-cut and gathered. Supposedly named for the Empress Josephine, as she preferred this style.

empire line - A seam that is sewn directly below the bustline.

empire waist - This waistline begins just below the bust.

fishtail train - Fitted around the hips and flares out from the knee to the hemline.

fitted point sleeve - A long, narrow sleeve that tapers to a point which rests against the back of the hand.

form-fitting/slim-fit - Straight from waist to ankle except for a slight curve around the hip.

frog closure - Chinese closing of decorative cording or braid. A soft ball of cording or a button is used to complete the closure.

frogging - an ornate, piped braid used in often complex designs, particularly on officer's uniforms.

gauntlets - Dress gloves extending above the wrist to at least mid forearm.

gaucho - Wide-legged pants or culottes reaching mid-calf and worn with boots.

halter top - A sleeveless bodice with a high choke or wrap neck that may be backless.

hankerchief style - The hem of a blouse or skirt that is gently jagged to form flowing points.

hip pockets - Pockets which are sewn on the front of the garment at hip height.

hook & eye closure - A 2-part fastening device (as on a garment or a door) consisting of a metal hook that catches over a bar or into a loop.

illusion bodice - A bodice made of sheer material giving the illusion of no bodice. Nude powernet is often used for this, particularly in skating and dance wear.

illusion sleeve - A sleeve made of sheer material giving the illusion of no sleeve.

jewel neck - A high round neckline resting simply at the base of the neck.

kangaroo pocket - A pocket formed by sewing a piece of cloth over the garment leaving two open ends. Used mostly in hoodies and other sweat tops.

keyhole neck - A tear shaped or round cutout that fastens at the front or back neckline.

kimono - A long robe with wide sleeves traditionally worn with a broad sash. It originates from Japan.

leg-of-mutton sleeve - (Also known as a gigot sleeve) a loose, full sleeve, rounded from the shoulder to just below the elbow, then shaped to the arm, often ending in a point at the wrist.

mandarin collar - A short, stand-up collar, adopted from the close-fitting Asian collar.

mermaid - This skirt hugs the body until it reaches the knees or just below and then ends in a dramatic flare.

natural waist - A seam or waistband that secures or falls at the natural curve of the body, which is the indentation between the hips and the ribcage.

notched collar - A two-piece collar with revers that can be only worn open.

off-the-shoulder neck - A neckline that lies gently hovering across the top of the bustline with the shoulders uncovered or able to be seen through the sheer yoke of net or organza attached to a high collar.

overskirt - A skirt worn over another skirt. Sometimes gathers are added in the form off swags to show some of the underskirt.

peasant/gypsy top - Romantic style often characterized with a low neckline, ruffles, or free flowing material.

peek-a-boo - Any part of the garment which has been cut out to reveal skin.

Peter Pan collar - often in plain white by way of a contrast, it's a divided, rounded collar used mostly in children's clothes.

petticoat - An underskirt usually a little shorter than outer clothing and often made with a ruffled, pleated, or lace edge.

patchwork - A look created by sewing several pieces of material together to form the garment, much like a quilt.

pinafore - Originally used to protect dresses from dirt, it was adopted as a fashion piece and worn as a sleeveless dress or over a blouse.

placket - The piece of cloth that reinforces a split or opening in a garment; that usually also serves as the closure.

puckered bodice - Usually associated with tube tops, it provides a scrunchy look. It's made by rows of stitching where the under thread is thin elastic - shirring elastic.

puff sleeve - A full sleeve of varying lengths, created by generous gathering around the upper armhole.

sarong skirt - Long cloth which is wrapped around the entire body.

scoop neck/round neck - A low, U-shaped or round neckline.

shawl collar - A one-piece collar which is turned down to form a continuous line around the back of the neck to the front.

sheaths - Usually have straight or close fitting skirts, accompanied by a form fitting bodice. The skirt is often ankle length and sometimes has a slit in either the front, side, or back to make walking easier.

shelf bra - A bra that is built right into the garment. Used in camisoles and swimwear.

shirred waist - A decorative gathering (as of cloth) made by drawing up the material along two or more parallel lines of stitching.

shrug - A woman's small, waist-length or shorter jacket.

skort - Shorts that have a front covering to resemble a skirt. Often found in sportswear.

spaghetti strap - A thin tubular strap that attaches to the bodice, named for its likeness to a strand of spaghetti.

split neck - A round neckline that looks like it has been cut in the center to form a small "V".

square neck - An open-yoke neckline shaped in the form of a half square.

straight legs - Trouser legs are cut an equal width from waist to ankle. These can be either narrow or wide, when they are knows as Oxford Bags.

sweep train - The shortest train, barely sweeping the floor.

sweetheart neck - A graceful, open yoke, shaped like the top half of a heart.

tank top - A short, sleeveless top with wide armholes.

tankini - A two piece bathing suit with the upper portion resembling a tank top.

tapered legs - Pant legs become progressively narrower toward the ankle.

tear-away shorts - Features versatile side poppers, press studs or Velcro that allow you to remove a top layer fast. This can also be applied to skirts.

trapeze top - Tank top style with flared bottom.

tulle skirt/bouffant gown - A sheer, puffed-out skirt often made of stiffened silk, rayon, or nylon net.

tunic style - A simple slip-on garment made with or without sleeves and usually mid thigh-length or longer, sometimes belted at the waist, and worn as an under or outer garment.

turtle neck - A high, close-fitting, turnover collar used especially for sweaters.

unitards - A close-fitting, one-piece garment for the torso, legs, and feet, and often for the arms.

V-neck/V-back - An open yoke coming to a "V" shape midway down the bodice.

wedding-band collar - A collar featuring a yoke that is either open or of sheer net with an ornate band fitting snugly on the neck, creating a choker effect.

wide legs - Trousers or jeans that are cut with extra fullness in the legs.

wing collar - A high, stiff collar with projections which stand out like wings. Used on dress shirts.

wrap top/surplice top - A bodice created by the cross-wrapping of fabric; may be in front or back, and associated with a high or low neckline.

Continue